Helmut Lang under the brand’s editor-in-residence Isabella Burley has already proven to be a potent refresh, having tapped Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver for its spring ’18 collection, and now Swiss photographer Walter Pfeiffer for a new capsule.
Pfeiffer is one of 12 artists selected by Burley for Helmut’s artist series, which aims to “uncover and recontextualize” cult artworks for a new generation. Each artist reflects the brand’s long history of creative collaborations, capturing the spirit of Helmut’s past and present.
The capsule, out now, features Pfeiffer’s black-and-white images from the early ’80s. “I call them ‘The Budget Years,’ but they were so-called ‘Golden Years’ too,” Pfeiffer told Helmut, describing the imagery in their capsule. He focused on documenting “young, exploding people,” through his photographs, casting Swiss Youth from the street or word-of-mouth.
Across t-shirts, posters, as well as a brushed fleece blanket and oversized pillow, Helmut’s capsule is printed with Pfeiffer’s powerful homoerotic imagery. There’s a shirtless man caught mid-whip, the back of a head with a bleached rat-tail and a close-up of hands making a sexual innuendo—three strong examples of the photographer’s erotic, free-spirited work.